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Brittney Johnson
Dr. Roger Stahl
December 2, 2011

Feminism and the Concept of Beauty in Modern Advertising


“Feed Your Face.” By Heather Brook
            Initially, the author deals with the question of why culturally different forms of female oppression are viewed as such, when, in reality, they have the same end result: female objectification. She raises the question of why genital mutilation in females is more symbolically oppressive than something like labioplasty, and suggests that although in a specific context one act is more severe than the other, both ultimately are products of a patriarchal world using these vehicles to objectify women and keep them “in their place.” From this discussion of feminist issues around the world, she introduces the idea that most people see feminism poorly due to a lack of good marketing for the ideology, rather than ideologically negative attitudes towards women in our society. Most people, she claims, don’t see the idea of ugly-feminism and controlling beauty practices as being interconnected. Women and men alike view personal beauty practices and the use of cosmetics as a personal choice, rather than standards deeply ingrained in pop culture and the media.

She uses this to introduce her overarching argument, that magazine articles promote conflicting ideas: you could be beautiful and skinny if you denied bad foods, and you are worthy of consuming all the rich chocolate you want. This simultaneous offer and denial of ideas is represented in three different ways, food as cosmetic, cosmetics as food, and women as food. Brook explains how magazines often use food in their health or health/beauty sections in such a way that they are described in terms of their actual health benefits, but rather how eating them is good for your appearance. How eating X will make you thinner or how the antioxidants in Y are good for your skin. Not only this, but how using foods as facial masks or scrubs will improve your attractiveness. In a similar, but opposite vain, she shows how throughout advertisements for body wash, makeup, and other cosmetics, women are shown the value of products without the debilitating or fattening qualities the real-food counterpart has, in turn promoting the concept of consumption of beauty products. Why eat fat-filled ice cream and gain unnecessary calories when you can use ice cream flavored lip gloss? Don’t bother eating cherries, you can shower yourself, literally, with them and “absorb” the qualities cherries symbolize: sexy and luscious. In these statements, Brook explains how all consumption and use of beauty products is connected to a desire to reinvent the concept of “self” by buying into, quite literally, the constructs created by advertising companies. All of this culminates in the final type of representation in advertisements: women are not only consumers, but objects to be consumed. They use products for their meaning and desire to be gazed upon, wanted, and desired, because of the qualities they have garnered from their beauty products.
            In the end, Brook’s goal is not to stop women from using beauty products or shaving or being women. In fact, she argues that those are the very things that create the ugly-feminism stereotype. Instead, she hopes that women become aware of the reasons behind choosing or not choosing to wear makeup, and other women’s choices to wear or not wear religiously suggested clothing (hijab, etc.). She hopes that women in our society will understand why feminism is what it is and why people have the attitudes towards it they do and find some sort of balance between under-consumption and over-consumption, that they not be tools of companies.
"Is Beauty A Joy Forever? Young Women's Emotional Responses to Varying Types of Beautiful Advertising Models." By J. Robyn Goodman, Jon D. Morris, and John C. Sutherland
            This article is the write up of a study done using surveys to discover what emotional response women have to different “types” of beauty commonly represented in advertisements. The study, after doing initial studies, discovered that there are not really six beauty types like previous authors and theorists had hypothesized, but two: Sexual/Sensual (SS) and Classic Beauty/Cute/Girl-Next-Door (CCG). The overall aim of the study was the see the difference in emotional responses between High CCG/Low SS, High SS/Low CCG, and Equal CCG/SS models. The theoretical framework for this study is the idea that women compare themselves to models and judge their own worth from those images, and this influences their feelings and emotional responses. They used the social cognitive theory to back this up, saying that women’s social behaviors are learned from the media. The authors note that emotions are a more accurate indication of future behaviors. The study surveyed 258 undergraduate females using pictures from easily accessible magazines that came out at the time of the study and a pictorial emotional scale for the questions.
            The findings of the study yielded that models with High CCG created greater pleasure, arousal, and feelings of dominance in the women than models with High SS. They found that there were negative emotional reactions to models with excessive amounts of sexuality in their posing/aura. The authors note that this has multiple implications that would need further research to find the root cause. They suggest, however, that women use High SS as comparisons for self-evaluation because these types of models create feelings of how a woman judges her value and ability. These types of models having low arousal rates, they think, because women avoid images that make them feel inadequate. The models of the High CCG type created feelings of pleasure, dominance, and pleasure. The authors believe this is due to women seeing women of this beauty type being treated better and not objectified like beauty type High SS, so they aspire to be like them and, oftentimes, are jealous of the High SS beauty type and find the High CCG type more attainable.
"Feminist Consumerism and Fat Activists: A Comparative Study of Grassroots Activism and the Dove Real Beauty Campaign." By Josée Johnston and Judith Taylor
            The basis of this article was to compare the marketing for Dove’s Real Beauty Campaign and the grassroots movement of Pretty, Porky, and Pissed Off (PPPO), a group of overweight feminist activists. However, here I will only focus on the components that relate to the Dove case study as the other example does not correspond to the subject of the project I am presenting. The authors draw on the Dove’s website, multimedia advertisements, magazines and journals, as well as participant observations at the Real Beauty events to evaluate how the campaign challenged beauty ideologies. Throughout the article, the authors seek to show the contradictions in the campaign, despite their use of “unconventional” looking women and “grassroots” participation in fundraising for organizations. They find that the Dove brand seeks to revitalize itself by creating what they call feminist consumerism, a type of purchasing that empowers women, and insures the brand aligns itself with the pseudo-feminist ideals the public believes in.
            Dove utilized print advertising in conjunction with its online forums to create a conversation within the public sphere about the ideals of beauty held by women. Dove used this feature to explain that the problem with today’s beauty standards is unrealistic goals invented by the media, and attempts to show these women how Dove products can make them more beautiful. Through articles about loving hair, accepting wrinkles, and embracing skin textures, Dove was able to advertise their products for these problem areas. During these conversations, Dove asked women to donate pictures of what they saw as beautiful and in response, donated money to organizations dealing with self-image issues (and, in exchange, being featured on their websites).
            The articles authors recognize that the Dove Real Beauty Campaign did begin to question and challenge traditional beauty ideals, but points out their inability to state that beauty should not be an ideal at all. The campaign’s success requires a fundamental belief in the necessity of some form of beauty standard, and that all women should be able to achieve it. However, the authors point out that beauty, by definition, is exclusive. Finally, the authors note how the Dove campaign relies on their idea of feminism and empowerment through consumer behavior. Rather than accepting themselves as they are, Dove employs the strategies of their marketing and advertising to convince shoppers to buy products that promote individual empowerment and beauty, instead of promoting any sort of collective change and progress.   
"The Beauty Myth and Female Consumers: The Controversial Role of Advertising." By Debra Lynn Stephens and Ronald Paul Hill
            This article deals with the advertising industry’s impact on the dieting habits of American women. The authors point out that although the ideal body image of women has become thinner and thinner since the 1960’s, the average real body weight of American women has increased dramatically during that time. These contradictory facts have led to an explosion of the diet industry, including weight loss programs, diet pills, and gyms. The article shows the obsessive behaviors and feelings of women towards getting the “perfect” physique in their statistics explaining that 75% of women of normal weight and 40% of underweight women think weigh too much. Women who have these dissatisfactions with their weight, they found, are incredibly more likely to develop eating disorders. This is due, they believe, in advertising sending a message that fat people are unhappy, lonely, and greedy, as opposed to thin people who live ideal lives.
            The authors note that attractive models in print and television ads are often more successful because consumers associate them with more positive attributes: intelligence, friendliness, etc. They explain that women are more likely to respond positively to a brand, product, or actually purchase this product, if the endorser is attractive because they have aspirational goals to be like that endorser and wish to develop the traits they embody. Finally, they suggest that the FTC further project women and young girls from this type of advertising that creates feelings of inadequacy and negative self-image.
“Just a Slogan.” By Sue Thornham and Pengpeng Feng
            The concept of this article is to analyze the feelings of young Chinese women in Guangzhou towards advertising in women’s magazines and see how this advertising influences how they see themselves and their attitudes towards their futures. Through the use of in-person interviews with students ranging from twenty to twenty-four from the university, the authors were able to gain a deep understanding of how real women react to advertisements in China.
            Throughout the interviews, the young women continuously refer to the idea that the models are perfect and embody everything the new Chinese woman hopes and dreams of being, but realizes she cannot be. These girls believe that the types of lives models themselves live, but also the ones they portray, are idealized fantasies of what women wish they could be, but also serve as a motivation to work hard to attempt to be as good as they can be and get as close to that model-ideal as possible. Not only this, but the author and interviewer find that throughout Chinese history, advertisements for women have become increasingly western, with models appearing to have white features and characteristics. Throughout the interviews, they find that young Chinese women see these as being incredibly high standards for beauty. They believe that bigger eyes and pale skin with light colored hair are far more attractive than what westerners consider to be beautiful for an Asian woman. They discuss with the girls how women often get plastic surgery to make their eyes wider to fit this standard, and how the practice of doing so is becoming more and more common among young ladies.
            In their conclusion, the authors explain that feminism in China is a new and up-and-coming ideology because of the political environment the women’s movement is developing inside of. However, it is important to note that although many of the strides towards gender equality have culminated in fashion magazines and multimedia advertising that corn-holes women and has detrimental impacts on young women’s self-image, the fact that there is some sort of movement towards equality is noteworthy. In the end, though, the same consumerist values are presenting themselves and setting back the women’s movement.

Works Cited

Brook, Heather. "Feed Your Face." Continuum: Journal Of Media & Cultural Studies 22.1 (2008): 141-157. Academic Search Complete. Web. 21 Nov. 2011

Goodman, J. Robyn, Jon D. Morris, and John C. Sutherland. "Is Beauty A Joy Forever? Young Women's Emotional Responses To Varying Types Of Beautiful Advertising Models." Journalism & Mass Communication Quarterly 85.1 (2008): 147-168. Academic Search Complete. Web. 23 Nov. 2011.

Johnston, Josée, and Judith Taylor. "Feminist Consumerism And Fat Activists: A Comparative Study Of Grassroots Activism And The Dove Real Beauty Campaign." Signs: Journal Of Women In Culture & Society 33.4 (2008): 941-966. Academic Search Complete. Web. 23 Nov. 2011.

Stephens, Debra Lynn, and Ronald Paul Hill. "The Beauty Myth And Female Consumers: The Controversial Role Of Advertising." Journal Of Consumer Affairs 28.1 (1994): 137-153. Academic Search Complete. Web. 23 Nov. 2011.

Thornham, Sue, and Pengpeng Feng. "“Just A Slogan”." Feminist Media Studies 10.2 (2010): 195-211. Academic Search Complete. Web. 23 Nov. 2011.